In general, there are two different ways of coloring hair:
1) Oxidative hair coloring:
Ammonium hydroxide is used to ‘open’ the hair cuticles, after which a mixture of dyes and peroxides is applied. The peroxide oxidative dissolves the melanin in the hair; the individual color components penetrate the hair and oxidative form the required hair color in the presence of other peroxide groups to give 100% gray coverage.
2.) Hair Toner:
So-called direct hair dyes (color molecules) are applied to the hair via a shampoo or a conditioner. After rinsing, there are enough color molecules left in the hair to give it a different color. The disadvantage of this method is that the tint is completely gone after 5 to 10 washes. Tints achieve a maximum of 30% gray coverage.